Medlars
Medlars (Mespilus germanica) are an odd-looking and uncommon fruit in the Rosaceae family, which includes the related quince, apples, roses, and so forth. Medlars are extremely well-adapted to the Northwest Coast region, where they grow quickly and easily, with no issues. They seem to be very happy in our climate.
In North America, the fruit isn’t available commercially. The trees, however, can be purchased from local nurseries. They bear fruit surprisingly quickly. the sapling I planted bore a decent amount of fruit within its first year. The first tree I found in Portland was planted in front of a dentist’s office near Mount Tabor. Though it was only about eight feet tall, it must have had at least 50 fruit on it that year. Unfortunately, the tree was removed shortly after.
Once a widespread and popular fruit, medlars were domesticated about 3,000 years ago in western Asia. Their cultivation spread to Greece and throughout the Roman Empire during Antiquity, and they continued to be cultivated throughout the Middle Ages. Today, medlars have made a slight comeback in England, but are mainly cultivated within their native range in Iran and neighboring Caucasian countries.
Species
Medlars
Medlar (Mespilus germanica)
Cooking with medlars
Medlar fruit resembles brown, oversized rosehips with five large pips. Their defining feature is the large calyx (or opening) at the bottom of the fruit, which has been the source of some funny names for the fruit, such as “open-arse” in England, and “cul-de-chien” in French (“dog’s ass”).
Medlars are picked in late fall, after the tree drops its leaves. At this point, the medlars are ripe, but still hard and sour. In order to eat them, they must be “bletted”. Bletting consists of allowing the fruit to soften past the point of ripeness. Other fruits that must undergo bletting to eat include persimmons, sorb fruit, and rowan fruit.
When medlars are ripe, they darken to a reddish-brown color and the stems are no longer greenish. Ripe fruit should detach easily from the tree and can be shaken off to collect.
To blet medlars, the fruit is stored in a cool, dry place with the calyxes facing up. During bletting, the fruit softens and increases in sweetness, and the acids and tannins decrease. Once bletted, medlars are soft and mushy. Visually, it’s easy to think they might have spoiled, but unless they turn blackish or have mold is growing on them, they are good to eat. The fruit should be dark brown inside.
I think of the flavor of medlars as a combination of dried date and apple. It really strikes me as a perfect winter flavor. The fruit can be eaten raw, or cooked into jam, jelly, or a paste (called “cheese”).
